Black & White Film Development Notes

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These notes are largely draw from the black and white lab at Emily Carr University, the article Develop Film at Home! A Step-by-Step Guide by B&H Explora, and personal trial and error.

Sources for development times are mostly those listed by the film manufacturer, except where I have found results from other sources like Massive Dev Chart and FilmDev to be preferable. I have attempted to note all specific sources when possible.

Preparation of Developer

Kodak HC-110, Dilution B (1+31)

FormatRollsDeveloperWaterTotal solutionTemp
135218ml582ml600ml20°C
13519ml291ml300ml20°C
120116ml484ml500ml20°C

Rodinal 1+25 (High dilution)

FormatRollsDeveloperWaterTotal solutionTemp
135112ml300ml312ml20°C

HC-110 1+50 (High dilution)

FormatRollsDeveloperWaterTotal solutionTemp
135112ml588ml600ml20°C

Development Times

Kodak HC-110, Dilution B (1+31)

StockShot atTimeNotes
Ilford HP5+4005min
8007min 30s
160011min
Ilford Delta 4004007min 30s
80010min
Ilford Delta 320016009min
320014min 30s
Ilford FP4+ 1251258minMassive Dev suggests 7 to 9min
40016minMassive Dev suggests 16 to 18min
80016m 30sPer Emulsive article. Results seem good.
Rollei Retro 400S4006m 30s
160016minDoesn’t push to 1600 very well. Shadows are very blocked up.
Fujifilm Acros 1001005m 30s
Kodak Tri-X 400 (400TX)4006minThe time provided by Kodak, 3min 45s, is widely beleived to be insufficient
Kodak TMAX 4004005m 30s
8006minPer Filmdev (not 5m 30 as suggested in Kodak tech sheet)
16007min 30sPer Filmdev
Kodak TMAX P3200320010min 30s
FILM Ferrania P30805min

Blazinal, 1+50 (Rodinal equivalent)

StockShot atTimeNotes
Kodak Tri-X 40040014min
80016min 30s
160018min 30s
Kodak T-MAX 40040012min
Ilford HP5+ 40040011min
Fujifilm Acros 10010014minRecipe from Filmdev Perhaps based on original Acros?

Kodak D-76

StockShot atTimeNotes
Fujifilm Acros 1001007min 15s
Ilford HP5+ 4004007min 30s

Method

Loading Film in the Change Bag

  1. Make sure that the film tank and spools are completely dry before attempting.
  2. Remove watch, clean hands.
  3. Organize items in the change bag before making change bag light tight.

Pre-wet

⚠️ Optional This step is recommended for some films (Kodak’s T-grained films) and not for others (Ilford films). While I don’t generally do this step anymore, it may be useful to consult the manufacturer data when processing a new film stock.

  1. Put tank under running water for 2min.
  2. If developing 120 film the film may have an anti-halation layer. Dump water and refill a couple of times to get anti-halation layer off of film. The residue from this layer may colour the water, from blackish-purple to orangish-red.

Developing

  1. Pour the developer in smoothly but quickly.
  2. Agitate gently and slowly for first 30s, then –just once– tap to dislodge air bubbles on the film.
  3. After that, agitate for 5s every 30s.
  4. Start pouring out developer 10s before time is up, then proceed immediately to stop.

Stop

Using tap water as a stop bath.

  1. Fill with water, then
  2. Rinse/shake for 30s.

Fix

  1. Pour in fixer for 5min total.
  2. Agitate for the first 30s of each minute.
  3. When complete, return fixer to container.

Wash

⚠️ Todo Investigate the Ilford Wash Method as an alternative to conserve water. May be especially useful if using distilled water.

  1. Run water for 5m.
  2. Add wetting agent.
  3. Agitate without inverting or exposing film to bubbles on the surface.
  4. Dump wash.

Hang and Dry

  1. Attempt to remove as much dust from the drying room as possible. If hanging in the shower, it can be useful to run the shower hot in order to generate steam for a couple of minutes. This will cut the amount of dust in the air.
  2. Hang film with weights.
  3. Lightly squeegee with fingers, avoid an actual squeegee (it scratches the film more easily than fingers do).
  4. Dry for at least 4 hours. Don’t rush it!
  5. Cut film and place into sleeves.
  6. If the film is curling when dry, sleeve the film and place under a heavy book for several hours to flatten.